It was less than thirty years ago that Budapest began the long climb out of it's frozen-in-time Communistic hole, but it has caught up with a vengeance. Now a part of the elusive European Union, Budapest offers all of the benefits of streamlined services with the old-world charm of a truly ancient civilization.

The city is a conglomerate of what were two separate cities, Buda and Pest (naturally). In 1873, they became one, although history does not die easily in Hungary, and the two sides still have very different characteristics. Buda, on the Western side of the Danube river, has a hilly landscape and an older, more neoclassical structure. The flatter Pest is the world of pre-World War One boomtimes, with it's boulevards and promenades. It is this side that most visitors spend their time in – and to be honest, it's by far the prettier side of town.

It's also the easiest to navigate. Although Budapest is surprisingly easy to navigate on foot, the Number 2 tram that runs the entire city length next to the Danube is the best-value overview of a European city. A ticket costs about 90 Forint (less than US$0.50) and you can take in the sights of the Chain Bridge and all the rest of the major architectural wonders that overlook the river.

Buda Castle is the dominating landmark. You can see it from almost anywhere near the river and it is huge. Once a perfect spot to watch out for invading Turks (although someone was sleeping at their post in the 16th century and the resulting occupation, followed by the Hapsburg empire, kept Hungary from autonomy until 1867).

Don't discount the Pest side altogether though. The Turks who controlled Budapest for a couple of hundred years certainly left their mark. Budapest became the capital of the Turkish empire, and the result is the lingering legacy of spectacular architecture, very good food, and those bath-houses that make Budapest so famous. It is on the Pest side of the city that some of the best bath-houses are. The maps given away freely to visitors clearly mark their locations, and the ones in Pest are both prettier (high domed skylights with intricate carvings) and more relaxing – there are designated women-only days, frightening massages that involve full-body scrubdowns with a kind of sandpaper, and pools of all temperatures.

Those massages, by the way, are not for the faint-hearted. They are conducted by two severe-looking women (always, in every bath house) who order you to strip (no underwear allowed) and lay you down on a slab of concrete that is wet with therapeutic waters. After slapping, scrubbing and pummeling you, they bark incomprehensible Hungarian at you – this either means roll over or get dressed. If you can get over the violation of it, you will never feel cleaner or more relaxed. This is an ancient art-form and not only will your skin be as smooth as it was the day you were born, you will be free from aches you didn't even know you had.

There are a million bars, cafes and eateries in Budapest. Walk five minutes away from the main streets (literally five minutes) and you will find the real city. Better food at half the price, authentic drinks, music, art and people. Just remember that the Hungarians are naturally an unsmiling people: You're probably not doing anything wrong, that stoic look is just how they're built. It takes time for a Hungarian to warm up, but once they do, they will be your friend for life.

There are plenty of good hotels in Budapest. From the $20 a night hostels (so much fun) to the $250 a night rooms at the Marriott and others that sit right on the river, there are always options. The nice thing about Budapest is that even in summer you can find a decent hotel to stay at. Unlike other European cities, it experiences its peak times, but is never so crowded that you wish you had stayed away.

(Photo:Fototalia/dundanim)

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