Essen has – like so many German cities – seen an almost revolutionary turnaround from a grey, industrial blandness to a thriving commercial and cultural center. There are an abundance of attractions here, including casually mentioned works by Van Gogh at the Folkwang Museum, but one of the simplest, and most fun stops on the itinerary is to take a whirl around the yearly Essen On Ice public rink.
A Changing Place
Essen is the seventh-largest city in Germany and in the decades following the Second World War determinedly revamped its image, and its main industries. Once one of the industrial backbones of Germany, the authorities foresaw a depressed economy and a depressed population sounding the death knell, and rightly began a long-term strategy to encourage corporate businesses, artists, and families to join the already large young population. This resulted in an upswing that has now seen Essen named the European Cultural Capital of 2010, a mighty achievement for this former factory town.
Churches and Religion
Essen's historical roots are in the church, and its monuments are a testament to this. The main attractions on the average tourist itinerary center around the many religious buildings that dot the area.
Abteikirche St Liudger is the most popular of the churches in Essen. Named for the missionary Liudger who inspired the building of this church in 1175, and is now buried within its grounds, the Abteikirche is an impressive example of Romanesque religious architecture. Entry costs €2.
Christianity is not the only religion that gained a strong foothold in Essen. The Alte Synagogue is Germany's largest and somehow survived World War II completely intact. It is now a functioning place of worship as well as a museum dedicated to the history of German Judaism and a monument to the victims and survivors of the Holocaust. Guided tours are available and are well worth the extra couple of Euros: The guides are knowledgeable and deeply passionate about their subject – each tour feels like the first time a guide has given their talk.
The medieval Dom (the Essen Cathedral) is a sanctuary right in the middle of the bustling pedestrian shopping area Kettwiger Strasse. As well as the Treasury (a separate part of the Dom that has, among other treasures, the crown worn by Otto III, the Holy Roman Emperor), the Dom is home to the Golden Madonna. The Madonna is housed in her own, dark blue, chapel that exactly matches her eye color and even if you are not particularly religious, she is certainly worth seeing.
Shopping
Back out in the street, the Kettwiger Strasse is the best place to make your credit card sweat. Everything from designer labels to cheap souvenirs can be found here, along with typically greasy traditional German food (vegetarians beware). As a pedestrian street, this is the main boulevard to enjoy the best that Essen has to offer, without the need to dodge traffic. It is also one of the best places in the city to enjoy a little people-watching.
Essen has not abandoned its industrial beginnings. The Zollverein colliery complex is a former coal manufacturing site that is now a museum, complete with displays of the weirdly fascinating art of coal-making.
Events
If you land in Essen between January 15 and March 7, 2010, head to the central square (follow the signs, which are in German, French and English). Here Essen on Ice offers Europe's largest outdoor ice-skating rink for the seven weeks it is open. If falling down a lot isn't all that inspiring, do not miss German hot chocolate (sold in the rink-side kiosks) and pull up a seat to watch other, less timid souls hurt themselves – and have a great time – on the ice. To skate will cost around €3 for 90 minutes for adults, with skate hire an extra €2.60. Be aware that you will need to pay a deposit for the skates, which will be scrupulously recorded and promptly returned to you, in true German style.
Hotels
Accommodation in Essen is more expensive than other parts of Europe. This is not peculiar to the city, more a reflection of Germany's high standard of living. There are the cheap hostel beds to be found (around €22 per person per night) but a more standard hotel room for two people will cost around €70 per night. A cheap and cheerful 2-star room in a hotel like the Brunnen (basic facilities, but has free Wi-Fi if you travel with your laptop) is a good compromise, at around €40 per night.
Use the Hotelsio Rate Finder on the left to find cheap hotels in Essen, Germany.
(Photo:©iStockphoto.com/AndreasWeber)
