Sicily sits at the center of the Mediterranean, seemingly kicked by the boot of Italy. The southeastern city of Siracusa at one time rivaled Athens in power, and still retains the slight aloofness that greatness brings. The exception to this is in December, when the whole island lets its hair down for the biggest religious holiday of the year: Santa Lucia day is for prayer, parties, and making best friends with strangers.

What to Expect

Sicily as a whole is an often uneasy combination of Italian, Greek and pure Sicilian. Visitors need to steer clear of any conversations involving the heritage or politics of the island, and instead simply make appreciative noises about the beauty of the island, the people and the (magnificent) food and wine. Sicilians are hospitable people but very reserved with strangers – at least when compared to the expansive welcomes dished out by their Italian and Greek neighbors – so don't be too surprised at expressionless service and sideways glances from locals.

Where to Start

Siracusa is more tolerant of tourists than the rest of Sicily, and attractions are plentiful (as is English, which is much more rare in the hinterlands). Unfortunately, the beauty of Cicero's city has given way to a sprawl of concrete and hastily erected industrial parks and neighborhoods, so finding the original flavor of Siracusa takes some digging. The best place to start is in the North West region of the city, in Neapolis. This is a major archeological preserve and Greek ruins sit easily beside their Roman counterparts. While there are entry fees (and kitsch souvenirs) to deal with, it is worth it to wander among the almost casually presented thousand-year old structures.

Places to See

The heart of Siracusa is the island of Ortigia. This neighborhood is easily accessed by wandering across the bridge that spans the Ponte Nuovo (head to the end of the city's main street Corso Umberto). Because this area was, for so long, the poorest neighborhood in Siracusa, it has been blessedly free of the rampant redevelopment that has plagued the rest of the city. Here, 500-year-old houses are still common, complete with Sicilian grandmother's hanging their laundry on tiny balconies and calling greetings to their neighbors across the alley. Ortigia is also the home of the best 'peasant food' in the city. Rich, hearty cooking and possibly the best coffee in Sicily, at old-fashioned prices.

Ortigia is also home to the endearing little church of Santa Lucia. This is an important lady in Sicilian life, and the biggest holiday for the city is Santa Lucia day (December 13). A giant silver statue of Lucia (Lucy, Queen of Lights, the patron saint of Sicily who was martyred in the year 304) is paraded through the town as fireworks resound off the port. This is not only a significant religious festival, but also a great excuse for a party. Locals are commonly out all night, enjoying the rich Sicilian food and Italian wines that the region is known for. Although the Sicilians are known to be a little reserved towards strangers, the barriers come down at festival time and you may be swept in to a table full of laughter, spilled drinks, and long dance sessions. Do as the locals do and catch a long nap in the afternoon before heading out.

Ancient Sites

Sicily as a whole carries a rich history. The Greeks, Romans, Normans, Arabs, Byzantines, Spanish, and even the Italians have all fought and conquered the island at some point in time. Evidence of this cultural mix is everywhere: Start with the Greek settlements by visiting the Siracusa Greek amphitheater. The amphitheater remains the largest on the island, covered in white colored stone. The Temple of Apollo sits in Siracusa’s old town center of Ortigia. However the site does require a bit of imagination. Most of the ruins are just that; ruins. The Duomo of Ortigia bears Greek influence as well. The church was converted from the Greek Temple of Athena, whose columns can still be seen along the side of the church today.

Castello Manice

A few remaining Arab touches cloud the city, such as an old Arab arch near the port. Castello Manice hints at the Spanish rule over the island and the old market showcases the Italian in Sicily. Vendors sell their fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats, and fish with loud Sicilian shouts to passersby. While there, pick up a serve of Pasta Alla Norma a traditional Sicilian dish of pasta served with eggplant and ricotta. Pizzerias cover Siracusa, specifically in the old town center, showcasing the Sicilian thick crust.

Hotels

Hotels in the area average between US$90 and $200 per night. During the winter season, visitors will find prices cut in half of summer month rates. From tiny bed and breakfasts to more standard hotel chains, accommodation is varied, with something for everyone For a more romantic experience, travelers are recommended to stay in Ortigia, the old town center. Here the pensions and guesthouses offer a cheap night's accommodation in an old-fashioned brass bed, complete with a breakfast that will fill a stomach until midnight – all for around $50 per night.

Use the Hotelsio Rate Finder on the left to find cheap hotels in Siracusa, Italy.

(Photo:©iStockphoto.com/gratienjonxis)

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