The city of Lyon, France, centrally located between Paris and Marseille, is said to have ‘more restaurants per square meter than any place on earth,’ a true testament to the French love of fine wine, delicately flavored food and the waist-expanding cheeses that the country is famous for.
Lyon is an embarrassment of riches when it comes to discovering French culture, and proudly displays her historic attractions, art museums, and the bustling commercial district of the Quartier Merciere. Meaning ‘Hill of the Crow,’ Lyon was proclaimed by the Romans as the capital of Gaul in 43 B.C., which means she looks fabulous for her age. Although the French like to flee to the seaside in August, July is perfect for a visit to Lyon, with the 14th being the best of all. It is on July 14th each year that the French celebrate Bastille Day, with all the fervor that only this ridiculously patriotic nation can summon up. Be prepared for a full street party, with restaurants and cafes bulging at the seams while the stylish local folk regale you with stories of French superiority. It is actually pretty seductive, and its easy to see why so many expats choose to call Lyon home.
Housed in former Benedictine convent, the Musee des Beaux Arts features the works of Lorenzo Costa, Veronese, Rodin, Delhomme, and a selection of Egyptian antiquities under such headings as ‘Life After Death,’ ‘The Cult of the Divine,’ ‘Everyday Life,’ ‘Egypt and the Greeks,’ and ‘Egypt and the Roman Empire.’ The museum is open all days except Tuesday from 10am to 6pm.
Also interesting is the Palais de la Miniature, located in the heart of Old Lyon. Here, miniature figurines depict historic French scenes, to include suppers, balls, battles and early international voyages. This is pretty good for slightly older children, as it slips in a little sneaky education on French history while they think they are just looking at dolls.
The Opera de Lyon, built in 1756 and designed by J.M. Pollet and A.M. Chenavard, accommodates 1200 spectators via eighteen levels of stacked balconies and vaulted glass substructures. While the four facades and foyer are all that remains of the original structure, the décor remains that of Greco-Roman temple, as conceived by Pollet and Chenavard. Located on the seventh level of the Opera de Lyon is the Les Muses de l’Opera restaurant. Sure to challenge even the most adventurous palette, Les Muses features a spicy, Asian-inspired accolade to traditional French cuisine. Menu highlights in dried apricot-crusted lamb, and lentils with chicken livers. Really, try it, but throw out the bathroom scales.
For those with a sweet tooth, Bernachon restaurant features over 50 different types of luxury chocolates, in addition to tarts, croissants, pralines a la orange and Rococos. Take note, Bernachon hours are split Tuesday through Saturday, from 8:30 to noon, and 2pm to 6pm. Sunday hours are 8:30am to 1pm.
Accommodation in Lyon is abundant and varied, from budget to luxury hotels. While budget hotels typically belong to chains, such as Best Western and Comfort Inn, there are also several privately owned boutique hotels, particularly in Old Lyon. The prices aren't cheap in the high season, but you can pick up a great room (in traditional French style) for around €50 a night if you shop online, and take your time.
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