Istanbul is one of the last outposts of European Turkey, before the mean and scary Asian side begins. At least, that is the picture that may have been painted for you but the truth is that Turkey is a country full of contrasts no matter which part you find yourself in. Istanbul simply happens to be a distilled version of all of them.
Hospitality
It is hard to find a more charming or hospitable people anywhere in the world. In fact, visitors may find Turkish hospitality becomes a little grueling after a while. It can be unnerving for Westerners to be watched closely through every meal to ensure there is no pause between mouthfuls, or constantly being told to sit down as it is unthinkable for – particularly women – to be seen carrying their own bags or getting up to get their own glass of water.
Still, smothering warmth and generosity of spirit is a pretty nice problem to have, and the good news is that it is just as present here in the big city as anywhere else in the country.
Turkish Baths
Travel-weary visitors should make their first stop one of the ubiquitous Turkish Baths. Don't even stop to drop your luggage off, as most baths also have a laundry service. This is no ordinary laundry service either – greyed out old singlets that were only good for the rag basket will come back whiter than new, and at around US$4 a load, it's a bargain. Your body is in for the same treatment if you are brave enough to take a scrub after your bath. Imagine being laid naked and spreadeagled on a slab of stone while two women (if you are a woman, or men if you are a man – this is a Muslim country, remember) take turns pummelling and scouring you with a giant version of a saucepan cleaner, before slapping you (this is your cue to roll over) to repeat the process on the other side. It's a little emotionally scarring, but you will never be cleaner, or your muscles more relaxed, again in your life.
Places to See
The Mosques in Istanbul are beautiful enough to bring a tear to the eye of architecture enthusiasts. The Blue Mosque (built across from the equally beautiful Hagia Sophia Museum) has an exquisite mosaic interior made of, of course, blue tiles. Don modest dress and visit – its unmissable. Skip the Yerebatan Sarayi (or Underground Cistern) that was once the giant underground well that supplied the whole city – its too much of a tourist trap now, and head instead to the Rumeli Fortress, a fifteenth century three-towered city protector built on the Bosphorous. This is also touristy, but in a much less crowded way.
Things to Buy
To buy some of the city's best Turkish Delight (much sweeter, although more delicate in flavor thanks to the true Rose Oil used, than our supermarket versions), try either the Grand Bazaar – four thousand stalls of tourist trap similarities – or, a better choice, the slightly lesser known Egyptian Bazaar. Also known as The Spice Market, the smells and colors of this market are entrancing. Take your time with the haggling (it is expected, but fierce) and don't be afraid to walk away – and mean it.
Getting Around
Forget the taxis in Istanbul. Take historic tram number 39, that stops at all the major points around the city, and make sure you stay on it long enough to get to Istiklal Street, a pedestrian-only street lined with shops, bars, and restaurants for all budgets.
Hotels
Hotels in Istanbul vary wildly in quality and price. There are plenty of chains, and plenty of very shady (as in dubious) 'inns' but the best choice is places like the Inter Hotel, just off Ordu Cadessi, that has quiet rooms and a tranquil Turkish feel to it, with the little comforts of home (like ham at the breakfast buffet and alcohol in the downstairs bar). Room rates average around €70 per night.
Use the Hotelsio Rate Finder to find top accommodation and cheap hotels in Istanbul, Turkey.
(Photo:iStockPhoto/anilakduygu)
